Hermès Exotics: An Expert's Guide

The only thing more coveted than a Hermès bag is a Hermès bag in exotic leather. Handmade in the Hermès ateliers, all exotic leathers are carefully inspected to ensure that only the finest pieces are used in each bag. We teach you what you need to know before purchasing a Hermès Exotic Skin Bag.

Porosus Crocodile

Porosus Crocodile is the king of Hermès precious leathers as it is one of the rarest and most expensive leathers due to its beauty and quality. 

Originating mainly from Australia, it's characterized by the tiny pores on each plate and comes in two varieties: Matte or Lisse, shiny. The shiny effect is achieved from a very careful and arduous agate stone polishing. For more recent bags, a Hermès porosus leather can be easily recognized by a “^” caret mark, which can be found next to the brand stamp or on the panel of the bag. For vintage pieces that don’t have a carat mark, you can identify a porosus by the pores on its skin and the three S’s: Small, Square and Symmetrical. Meaning the plates must be small, square shaped and symmetrical.

Niloticus Crocodile

Niloticus crocodile is the second most coveted Hermès exotic. The skin originates from a freshwater species native to the Nile River in Africa. The Niloticus crocodile's scales are subtly larger than those of Porosus and are less symmetrical. A fast way to identify Niloticus crocodile is by a “..” diaeresis mark in the foil.

Alligator Mississippiensis

Although similar to crocodile, the Mississippiensis alligator can be recognized by its poreless scales. Extremely durable, the skin is generally less even than that of crocodile, and only a very limited selection passes Hermès' Quality Control. This results in its use primarily for smaller bags and accessories compared to its reptilian relative.

Varanus Niloticus

Varanus niloticus is one of the rarest Hermès exotics. Coveted for its highly glamorous appeal, Varanus can be recognized by its refined, even scales and its exceptional reaction to dye, resulting in captivatingly profound colors. Although one of the largest reptiles, the Niloticus lizard is smaller than crocodiles or alligators, and its skin is rarely used for bags larger than 25 cm. It is most commonly seen on evening clutches and shoulder bags.

One of the oldest Hermès exotics, like crocodile and alligator, Varanus niloticus comes in both shiny and matte finishes. Known to age well, its scales protect the skin from wear, though it remains sensitive to the elements. Hermès differentiates the use of this skin with a dash mark, which can be found next to the brand stamp.

Ostrich

Originating from South Africa, ostrich is the only avian species used in leather goods. Ostrich skin bags are distinguished by their characteristic feather follicles, with the density of follicles contributing to the value of the skin.

When purchasing an ostrich leather bag, carefully examine the handle, as it often shows the first signs of wear due to natural oils from handling. Additionally, consider the color: while subtle tones are versatile and easier to wear, rare vivid shades consistently command the highest prices.

Caring for Hermès Exotics

As the term "precious skins" suggests, Exotics require special handling. More sensitive to the elements than regular leather bags, Crocodile, Alligator, Varanus, and Ostrich should be kept away from rain, body creams, excessive sunlight, and extreme temperatures. Avoid rubbing light-colored Exotics against darker clothing to prevent color transfer. Ideally, store them with a bag pillow in their box and dust bag, in a dry, dark environment at room temperature.

After each use, wipe your bag gently with a soft cloth, and send it to a professional bag spa at least once every two years. With proper care, your Exotic bag will last well beyond a lifetime, becoming even more beautiful with age.