The Style Series: Elissa Santisi

The longtime Vogue editor reflects on New York fashion’s most influential era — from Helmut Lang and Phoebe Philo to vintage Gucci and the enduring appeal of personal style. With an eye shaped by decades inside the industry, Elissa Santisi still believes the most interesting style is the most personal.

You were at Vogue during a very specific moment in fashion. What did New York feel like at that moment in time?

I was at Vogue from 98 to 2013, so a lot changed during that period, but the early years really stand out. I remember I wore a red denim skirt by Helmut Lang with a white T-shirt that had elbow slits on my first day - it kind of says everything about that moment then: modern, pared back, a bit experimental. Prada, Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Narciso Rodriguez were the cool girl uniform. Miu Miu did a show in New York, Helmut had just moved to NY from Paris and opened this amazing art-meets-fashion store and staged a show.

At the same time, the art world was shifting from Soho to Chelsea - Balenciaga opened a store nearby, down the street from Comme des Garçons. Marc Jacobs’ store on Mercer Street was the place to hang out and shop. It was a great moment for fashion and for New York in general.

Shows were different too - less produced, more insider. There were celebrities, but they were usually friends of the designer or part of the scene. It felt less like a spectacle and more special. And no iPhones, so people were much more present.

What from that era still feels relevant to you today?

A lot of the effortless style you see now really traces back to that era. It’s evolved, obviously, but the foundation is the same. I think Phoebe Philo has as much influence now as Helmut Lang did back then. Jil Sander and Calvin Klein feel relevant again, and The Row really captures that whole mood. And you still see the influence of Martin Margiela, especially his ’90s work, everywhere.

After years as an editor, what catches your eye first in someone’s style?

I’d say consistency. The people who stand out usually have something recognizable - something that feels like them. A signature. And it’s not necessarily about wearing the latest whatever - it’s more about how they wear it and how they mix it in.

When I look at street style from the shows, I always prefer the off-duty model look. They spend all day in head-to-toe trends, then step out in their own clothes - pared down, personal, and somehow more interesting.

Are there any shows you still think about today?

So many, but here are some…

The first Miu Miu show I saw in New York.

Veronique Branquinho Fall ’98 - This show is still so good if you can find it, and still so chic and relevant. The layering, the odd colors, the long pleated skirts, furs. And the cast - models all with long hair, all looking like her.

Helmut Lang - they’re all great because they don’t age, but Fall ’95. So cool and covetable - could be everyone’s uniform now. Also Fall ’98 - the parkas and pale palette.

Prada - again, so many, but the “ugly” show stands out - Spring ’96. You either loved it or you hated it. I loved it then and still have pants from it.

Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga - Fall 2007 - the combination of preppy collegiate jackets and low-slung jodhpur pants. We all wanted it.

Phoebe Philo Céline - If I had to pick one, her first runway show, Spring 2010. It was such a clear vision and so concise - what everyone wanted to wear at the time… and continues to be.

Do you buy vintage to wear, to collect, or both?

I really buy vintage to wear, not to collect - I’ve never wanted my closet to feel like a museum. However, and it’s a big however - over the years, especially from my time working with accessories, I’ve naturally built a small archive. Mostly shoes and bags. I try to edit it down, but there are pieces I love and feel attached to that I can’t let go of.

What has been your best vintage find?

A Saint Laurent Rive Gauche safari top that laces up the front that my sister found for me ages ago. I wear it every summer.

A Gucci brown suede double-breasted jacket from the ’70s that I found at a vintage show in Brooklyn. It fit me so well, but I hesitated because it was missing a logo button that was specifically from the ’70s. I then obsessed and went back for it. I found a button dealer on eBay and she miraculously sourced it for me.

A long yellow silk dress from the ’30s. Dresses are always difficult for me to find. This one I’ve worn probably too many times, even though it’s a struggle to get on - no zipper or opening on the side.

Is there something you missed and still think about?

Céline pants with the slits on the bottom from the Fall 2016 collection - especially the colored ones.

A Gucci Alessandro Michele-era navy blazer with the NY Yankees logo on the pocket - tried it on in the store but sadly didn't buy it.

Recently, the Phoebe Philo parachute skirt. I hesitated too long and it came and went quickly.

What are you searching for right now?

A vintage zodiac pendant from the ’70s - Libra in my case - from Van Cleef and Arpels.

An Aldo Cipullo-designed “twisted nail cuff” from David Webb. This was before he went to Cartier and a precursor to the “Juste un Clou”.

And, like everyone else, the perfect black Chanel jacket.

SHOP ELISSA'S SELECT